Install blue board

An innovative pre-textured panel that allows cladding and painting on the same day. It uses no set joints which reduces the risk of joint cracking. Projects Renovations New Builds. Hamptons looks Australian Contemporary Traditional.

Find a builder. Strong and durable, the HardieTex System is a 7. Click to see full answer Simply so, is Blue Board water resistant? Blueboards are somewhat water - resistant but not waterproof, and preferably should not be used for wet or damp applications.

In fact, blueboards should only be used as an underlayment for veneer coat plastering, which is what the blue -colored paper is designed for. Likewise, can you put tile on blue board? Blue board is a form of drywall that's specifically made to receive plaster, tile and other high-moisture applications.

If your shower has been framed out in blue board , you can tile right over it , provided it's solid and flat, with no areas missing or crumbling.

The plumbing should all be installed before you start. Use in high water areas like bathroom and kitchens. You can hang drywall in the bathroom but not the same type that you hang in the rest of the house.

Bathroom drywall must be moisture-resistant, and it's colored green to distinguish it from the regular variety. It isn't appropriate for areas that actually get wet, however, such as shower and tub surrounds.

While blueboard does not need the primer coat of paint like drywall does , ideally it does still need a finish of some kind to hide these flaws. The joints will need to be taped, and for the surface to have a flawless finish, a veneer still applied. Moisture Resistant Green Board can sometimes get confused as being waterproof so be aware that this should not be used if it's going to come in contact with water.

Blue Board Drywall - Blue board drywall is another moisture resistant drywall that is used for veneer plastering. Traditional green drywall also known as greenboard is only moisture-resistant.

Fun Fact. Unlike wood-based materials such as plywood or products that contain some wood such as drywall, cement board lacks organic matter, making it resistant to mold , rot, shrinkage, or decomposition. Drywall panels are covered with paper that will take paint directly, once they've been taped and the joints and fasteners have been covered with compound.

The paper is not waterproof, which is why you should not try to paint over it or let it get wet. Rather than using them on the outside of a house or shed. You would be better off using blue boards inside and putting an additional layer of regular drywall to paint or provide that seamless look.

Construction is a significant area of need due to its durability. Blue boards can be used when insulating walls or even floors since it can withstand many forces.

There are also ways around its moisture weakness that can make it even more critical in construction. Due to its thickness, blue boards can provide noise-canceling effects. This feature can be useful for music rooms or recording studios.

You can use the plasterboards under floorboards to improve their noise-canceling effects. If you cover both the floor and the walls with blue boards, you will surely keep noise from getting in or out. Since blue boards can go under other drywall forms, they provide a strong foundation for any space.

You want to make sure to use a veneer plaster as a bonding agent. Blue boards are designed to adhere to that type of application faster and more robust than other types. You also want to coat your blue board panels with a plaster skim to make it less water absorbent. You are set on using blue boards in your next project, so now what?

Whether that would be the case after my owner builder touch, was for others to judge. Cladding with this material was a trial. Hardie, the makers of this product, claimed it was an easy, lightweight rendered option. In reality, it was a very difficult cladding to use, for a lone worker.

It was very heavy, about 45kg per board, and required 50 screws to secure each of them. It took me a very frustrating day to work out how on earth I was going to install them, let alone move them.

The Hardie site says blueboard cladding 'light and easy', but it is not. They had a stirrup seat for the boards to sit in and theoretically made it easy to keep the board bases horizontal. I used these for the first wall: each 3 metre strip required a screw every 30mm or so into the bottom plate.

At 25 cm off the ground, a tedious and back-breaking exercise in itself. Placing the heavy boards into the stirrup was very difficult, and even more difficult to manoeuvre once they were in, as the stirrups were a snug fit.

By the end of the first wall I ditched the strips for, what I believe, was a better method. That method was to create a level support under the board. It required sand, a stamper, a spirit level and support beams of some kind: I used steel studs. I used a stringline and scribed a level on the concrete slab where I wanted the base of the boards, then set up the support for them to sit on and position horizontally. The first step in this two week blueboard cladding process was to install extra studs into the frame so the edges of the boards could be well secured.